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Butler Place is shown on the map in red.

Today we’ll be talking about Butler Place, which was originally Fitch Alley.  We’ll be discussing both Mr. Joseph Butler and Mr. Benjamin Fitch in this post….because the Fitch name is very important in Buffalo’s social work history! Normally, I don’t write much about the original namesakes of streets but I don’t know when else I’d be able to tell the story of the Fitch Institute and the Fitch Creche otherwise. 

Another Butler – Butler Street

Most of the time, a municipality likes to ensure it doesn’t have duplicated street names, to avoid confusion for things like emergency services and mail delivery.  However, Buffalo has two streets called Butler:  Butler Place and Butler Avenue.  The next post, coming next week, will discuss Butler Avenue and its namesake, the founder of The Buffalo News.

1872 atlas of buffalo butler street

1872 Atlas of Buffalo map showing Butler Street, lined in orange.

There actually used to be a THIRD Butler!  Butler Street was laid out in 1855 between Delaware Avenue and the State Reservation Line (near Richmond Avenue).  Butler Street is now known as Lexington Avenue.  Frank Kraft, an undertaker who lived at what became 53 Lexington Avenue, decided the name of Butler Street was not “toney” enough, meaning “aristocratic or high-toned.”  Mr. Kraft convinced his neighbors to petition to become Lexington Avenue, thinking it sounded fancier.  The name change was granted in 1888.  There was a trend during this era to change street names to seem higher class.  At the time, people believed Avenues were nicer than Streets, so residents would petition to change their street names – Delaware and Michigan went from streets to avenues around this time.  During the same Streets Committee Meeting where Butler became Lexington, Cleveland Street became Cleveland Avenue.  Unfortunately, I could not determine who Butler Street was originally named for when it was laid out in 1855; several Butler families lived in Buffalo around that time.  However, neither the Butler Place nor the Butler Avenue namesakes lived in Buffalo in 1855, so it was not named for either of them.  

The Original Fitch Alley

So now, back to Butler Place….Butler Place runs for just one block between Swan Street and Myrtle Avenue, just east of Downtown Buffalo.  Butler Place was originally named Fitch Alley, after Benjamin Fitch, but was renamed in 1891 to honor Joseph Butler.  Mr. Fitch owned the land just west of Fitch Alley.  

1872 atlas of buffalo second ward fitch institute_zoom

1872 Atlas of Buffalo image showing some of the properties of Benjamin Fitch outlined in red. Property at the southwest corner of Swan and Michigan became home to the Fitch Creche (in the building located on the site on this map) and Fitch Institute on the vacant portion of that property. Note Fitch Alley’s name on the map. Intersects with Folsom Street, which is now Myrtle Avenue.

Mr. Benjamin Fitch

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Benjamin Fitch and his grand-nephew Augustus. Source: Hartford Courant.

We’ll start with Mr. Fitch.  Benjamin Fitch was born in June 1802 to Charlotte Selleck and Stephen Fitch.  His birthplace is disputed among various records.  Charlotte petitioned the State of Connecticut for divorce on the grounds of being threatened and beaten by her husband.  The divorce was granted in 1808, and Charlotte moved away with two of Benjamin’s siblings.  Benjamin and two of his brothers lived with their father.  In 1812, at the age of 10, Stephen was working as an Indian Agent, and the family came to Buffalo to see Red Jacket.  They were still in Buffalo when it got burned by the British in 1813-1814, and they decided to move to Albany.  At that time, Benjamin ran away from his father and made his way back to New York City by working on the Hudson River in a sloop.  He reunited with his mother and lived in New York City for a few years, working as a store clerk.  He eventually went into business for himself.

In 1824, Benjamin Fitch returned to Buffalo to open a General Store.  After a few years of establishing his business, he returned to New York City but maintained a branch office in Buffalo.  In 1841, he returned to Buffalo as a member of the firm of Marvin, Bennett & Company.  The Bennett in Marvin, Bennett & Co is Mr. Bennett of Bennett Park fame, and the Marvin is Marvin Street’s namesake. The store was originally on the west side of Main Street between Seneca Street and the Terrace (the site is now a part of Seneca One Tower).  After a year or two, Benjamin returned back to New York.  In 1846, he returned to Buffalo, establishing Benjamin Fitch & Co., with branches in Buffalo and Chicago.  He split his time between Buffalo and New York City while his nephew ran the Chicago Branch.  Fitch & Co. had three stores in Buffalo at that time.  In 1853, he retired to New York City for good but retained many of his Buffalo land holdings.  After Mr. Fitch retired, his company eventually became a part of Flint & Kent, which operated until 1956.  

During the Civil War, Mr. Fitch contributed to many wartime causes.  Mr. Fitch saw many soldiers return wounded or broken by battle, unable to provide for their families.  In 1863, Benjamin Fitch founded Fitch’s Home for Soldiers and Orphans in Darien, Connecticut, with the endorsement of President Abraham Lincoln and Secretary of War Edwin Stanton.  The Home was formally dedicated on July 4, 1864, as a place for the support of at least 80 disabled soldiers and the support and education of their children.  It was the first home of its kind in the United States.  Mr. Fitch would take out bank accounts for each of the children there and deposit $5(about $100 today) into the accounts to get them started once they grew up and moved out.  Mr. Fitch later added a public hall and art gallery to the home.   After Mr. Fitch died, the State of Connecticut took over the facility.  Fitch’s Home for Soldiers operated until August 1940, when the 561 residents were moved to Rocky Hill for the State’s new Veterans Home and Hospital.  The only remaining building from Fitch’s Home is the chapel, which was moved across the street and is now a VFW Post.  Also in Darien, Mr. Fitch built a house for his mother in 1850 and helped endow a local church for her across the street, St. Luke’s Protestant Episcopal.

The Fitch Creche

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Life Size Portrait of Benjamin Fitch from the Soldiers Home. Source: History of the Fitch Family.

In the 1870s, Buffalo was beginning to look at starting a Charity Organization Society (COS).  While working to start COS, Reverand Gurteen and Ms. Maria Love visited Benjamin Fitch at his home in New York.  Reverand Gurteen was pastor at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church here in Buffalo, and Maria Love was a wealthy socialite who cared deeply about social work reforms of the time.  We’ll learn more about the Love family when I write about Love Alley.  Ms. Love had visited many creches in England, France and Italy while traveling with her nephew and thought about founding a model kindergarten and training school in Buffalo.  A creche is a nursery where babies and young children are cared for during the working day, what we’d call a daycare today.  The COS of Buffalo was incorporated in November 1879 and was the first Charity Organization Society in the United States.  The COS asked Mr. Fitch for assistance in leasing a property for the Society to build a creche.  While never marrying or having children of his own, Mr. Fitch felt strongly for their mission.  The property at 159 Swan Street was deeded to the Society by Mr. Fitch on January 1, 1880.  The house at 159 Swan Street was originally built by Lucius Pratt in 1835.  After Mr. Pratt’s death, Benjamin Fitch purchased it, and it was operated as a rooming house.  Some sources incorrectly state that the house was home to Mr. Fitch’s dry goods store or that Mr. Fitch lived in the house; neither of those statements appear to be correct based on my research.  The property was valued at $100,000 at the time(about $3 Million today).  The Fitch Creche was established on the property “for the care of infants and small children while their mothers are away from home at their daily labors; without regard to creed.”  Maria Love served as Chairman of the Fitch Creche Advisory Board.  

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Sketch of Fitch Creche, 1897. Source: Buffalo Courier.

The Fitch Creche was quickly in operation, opening on January 5, 1881.  The Creche was funded by working mothers paying 5 cents a day (about $1.54 today).  This was the first organization of its kind at the time.  While we think of daycare as commonplace today, this was a new thing back then.  As the Buffalo Commerical put it at the opening, “The Creche was established to give poor working people’s young children a home to remain in during the day while the parents were seeking a livelihood outside.  The design was to keep such children as would otherwise be left in the streets or locked up in the house.”

The Creche served children from 2 months old to 10 years old and operated from 7 am to 6pm daily.  The children were provided 3 meals, Creche dresses, baths and shampoos, naps, and physical exams with treatment as needed.  There was a staff of 12 nurses, a housekeeper, a dietician, and three cleaning women.  Breakfast was at 8am and consisted of oatmeal and milk.  Dinner was served at noon, consisting of bread, broth, potatoes, meat, baked apples, rice and milk.  For tea at 5pm, they were served bread, applesauce and milk.  Children under one-year-old were fed with condensed milk out of a bottle.  The Creche had space for 50 children when it first opened.

A kindergarten was established in the Fall of 1884.  You sometimes hear that this was the first kindergarten in the country, which is not true.  The first kindergarten in America was established by Elizabeth Peabody in Boston in 1860.  Buffalo had a kindergarten established as early as 1867, run by Miss Mary Sheldon.  The Fitch Creche daycare is, however, believed to be the first daycare for working women in the United States.  The Fitch Crech established a training school for nursemaids was established in 1890. This was established as the “Nursery Maids Department of the Training School for Domestics,” and this was also the first program of its kind.  Four nursery maids graduated in the first year.

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Fitch Creche. Source: History of the Fitch Family.

Over time, COS was able to arrange for some of the children to go away for the summer to Fresh Air Missions.  The first Fresh Air Mission was first established in 1888 by the Church of the Messiah, which was located on Main Street between Chippewa and Huron (now Fountain Plaza).  The Fresh Air Fund sent children to Corfu, Middleport, Orchard Park, Silver Creek, Evans and other country locations.  The idea was that getting kids out of the crowded, dirty city to spend a few weeks in the pure air of the countryside would be good for the children.  Cradle Beach Camp got its start as one of the Fresh Air Missions.  While the children were at camp, some of the working mothers were also sent away for vacations at homes in the countryside, including in East Aurora and Holland, to allow for them to get a vacation and some rest, too.  

Charity Balls were held to add supplemental income for the Creche, with the first ball held in 1880.  In 1903, the balls began to be held for the children, because they felt the ballroom was too beautiful to only hold one event a year.  Charity Balls stopped from 1917-1919 because of WWI but eventually were picked up again.  When the Fitch Creche closed in 1933, the Maria M Love Convalescent Fund was established to continue the mission through the balls.  The Children’s Charity Ball is still held to this day, with funds raised still going to people in need.  This year’s Charity Ball will be held for Middle School students in November of 2024.  

The Fitch Institute

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Map of properties donated to COS by Benjamin Fitch. Map by author.

Many people know the Fitch name in relationship to the Fitch Creche, but there were other institutions that bore the Fitch name in Buffalo – the Fitch Institute and the Fitch Accident Hospital!  In May 1881, Mr. Fitch donated several other properties to the COS for the “purposes of founding a maintaining in Buffalo a public institution for the physical, moral and intellectual benefit of the worthy poor of the city, without distinction of creed or sex.”  The Institute was to run a course of free lectures each year on scientific or other instructive topics, a free reading room, a provident coffee and soup room, a dispensary for supplying medicines and a medical attendant, a training school in domestic work for girls, a hospital for the temporary treatment of injured persons, and a place of deposit of small sums of money for working people to be drawn down as they need.  The properties had a value that totaled about $325,000 (about $10 Million today) of property donated to the organization.  The donation directed COS to build the public hall at the property on the southwest corner of Swan and Michigan, adjacent to the Fitch Creche.  They were able to sell, mortgage or lease the other properties to allow for income to provide for their mission. 

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A portion of the 1889 Sanborn Map which shows the corner of Swan Street and Michigan Avenue, depicting the Fitch Creche and Fitch Institute Building.

The public hall was established as the Fitch Institute, located at 163-167 Swan Street and 304-310 Michigan Streets.  The Fitch Institute was designed to be similar to the Cooper Institute in New York.  The cornerstone was laid for the Fitch Institute on May 10, 1882.  The first floor of the building was designed to include a large office for COS where they could also operate the penny bank.  They were the only society in New York State to receive a penny bank charter since savings banks opposed penny banks.  A penny bank was a bank that allowed for any deposit to be made, no matter how small (even just a penny).  The charter for the penny bank allowed each person to deposit up to $50. 

The rest of the ground floor was set up as storefronts for the society to rent out for income.  The next floor called the ground floor, was set up for a hall for seating 200 people.  This was to be the home of the lectures.  Additional rooms on the ground floor were set up for surgeons and nurses to be known as the Fitch Accident Hospital.  On the next floor, called the second floor, was the reading room, library and coffee room for the Mechanics Institute.  On the third floor, half of the building was set up to be a hall for the Knights of Labor with the other half of the floor for housing for older couples.  Additional housing was on the fourth floor.

fitch institute

Fitch Institute Building. Source: History of Fitch Family.

Mr. Fitch’s Death

benjamin fitch crypt

Interment of Benjamin Fitch in St. Luke’s Church.

Mr. Fitch never married or had children, though he was close with his nephews and nieces and grandnephews and grandnieces.  Benjamin Fitch died in November 1883 at his house at 61 Fifth Avenue in New York City.  He is buried in Darien, Connecticut, in the crypt of the church he built.  It was estimated when he died that he had given away more than $500,000 of his wealth to charity (about $15.6 Million today).

The Legacy of the Fitch Institute and Fitch Creche

The Fitch Creche displayed a model creche in the Children’s Building at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893 and received medals at the New Orleans Exposition in 1885, the Paris Exposition in 1900, and the Pan American Exposition in Buffalo in 1901.  The Fitch Creche and the Fitch Institute were considered to be social work pioneers of their time!  

The Fitch Institute was host to countless events such as cooking classes, concerts and lectures on a variety of topics.  The Women’s Educational Industrial Union got its start in the Fitch Institute before spinning off as its own organization.  In October 1885, the Union hosted Julia Ward Howe at the Fitch Institute; she gave a lecture titled “Is Polite Society Polite?”  Julia Ward Howe is best known for writing the Battle Hymn of the Republic and founding Mother’s Day.  

The Fitch Accident Hospital closed in 1901 because it was felt that it was too costly for the COS to operate such a small hospital (served about 25 patients).  They also felt services were going to be duplicated by the nearby Emergency Hospital that was under construction. The Emergency Hospital had begun as a First Aid Station run by the Sisters of Charity in 1884 in a home near the railyards.  The new Emergency Hospital opened in January 1902 at the corner of Pine and Eagle Streets and was able to serve 100 patients. The Emergency Hospital was taken over by the Diocese of Buffalo in 1954 and was renamed in 1977 after receiving a donation from Paul V. Sheehan.  In 1979, a new 136-bed Sheehan Memorial Emergency Hospital opened on Michigan Avenue, in front of the former Pine Street hospital.  The old Emergency Hospital on Pine Street was demolished after the new hospital opened.  Sheehan Memorial closed in 2012.

After the hospital closed, the rooms were used as the Hotel Orizaba during the Pan-American Exposition.   After the Expo, the hotel space, along with the third and fourth floors of the Fitch Institute building, was turned over to be used as a Railroad YMCA.  Called the Union Terminal Railroad Department, it provided overnight shelter for train crews.  Railroad Y’s were located throughout Western New York to serve railroad employees. 

In 1907, the first tuberculosis dispensary in Buffalo was located in the Fitch Institute, having been established by the TB Committee of the COS.

After the Fitch Institute Closed

The Fitch Institute closed in 1933.  They had carried out the purposes of the society for as long as they could, but the character of the neighborhood had changed, and other agencies had taken over some of its functions.  The Great Depression was the death knell of many private charities, such as COS as public-operated social services came into existence.  The Charity Organization Society became the Family Services Society in 1934. Child and Family Services is the organization that today continues on the work of the COS and Family Services Society.  

In 1948, the Fitch Creche and Fitch Institute properties were purchased by the City at a tax foreclosure sale for $41,927 (about $547,000 today).  It had been determined that the properties were no longer exempt from taxes after they were no longer being used for charitable purposes.  The City listed the property for sale at Auction for $60,000 in June 1953(about $707,000 today).

In 1953, Arner Company, who were manufacturing pharmacists with headquarters across the street at 303 Michigan Avenue, leased the Fitch Institute building.  The building was used by Arner Company until 1960. 

In 1967, Erie County had considered using the Fitch Institute Building for a Men’s Shelter.  At the time, there was a real urgency to find a sufficient building because of the demolitions of Halfway House, Terrace House and the St. Francis Hotel.   They inspected the building and determined it would not work because the building had no heating or electrical service, the ceilings were too high, the floor and joists were made of wood, and the staircases were not fireproofed.  Due to the imminent need for a new shelter, they wanted something that could very quickly be turned over and passed on using the Fitch Building.  

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Fitch Institute Building as it looked in 1973 when it was listed for sale by the City. Source: Buffalo News.

In 1973, Ralph Dribble of the Buffalo News called the Fitch Institute “a genuine historical landmark.  It is a relic of times when private charity anticipated what politicians of later years would proclaim under such labels as New Deal, Fair Deal and Great Society.  It was a precursor of what would later become known as children’s hospitals, day nurseries, working girls’ homes, soup kitchens and credit unions.  In short, it is the high-water mark of the days when private charity tried to take care of society’s problems.”

In January 1973, the City of Buffalo put the Fitch property on the auction block.  In April 1973, Joseph Nasca, on behalf of Land Reclamation Inc., purchased the property for $5800(about $41,000 today)  with the agreement to demolish the building within 90 days.  In May 1973, the City Planning Division asked the Common Council to rezone the property for commercial.  It had been zoned as industrial when the property was used by Arner.  

Fitch_Building_Fire_1974

Fitch Building under fire in 1974. Source: Buffalo News.

On May 15, 1974, the Fitch Institute Building was burned down by an arsonist.  Several floors of the building had been saturated with combustible liquids and then set aflame.  Fire investigators were unsure of the reason for the fire since the building was supposed to be demolished by Land Reclamation Inc. by February 21st, 1974.  The extinguishing of the fire also caused water damage at the building next door, the former Fitch Creche, which was being used as a warehouse for rugs and floor coverings at the time.  One firefighter was hospitalized after the fire.  Land Reclamation Inc. had purchased the property because they had needed fill, but after the fire, they claimed they had gotten fill elsewhere and held off on demolishing the building.  They held off on demolishing as they were looking at purchasing other properties on the same block and were waiting to secure all of the properties so they could be demolished all at one time.  The fire-damaged ruins of the Fitch Building were demolished at the end of May 1974. 

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159 Swan Street in the 1990s before demolition. Source: Preservation Ready Sites.

In the 1990s, preservations were working on getting the Fitch Creche building at 159 Swan Street listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  It had severe water damage.  The building was demolished in June of 1998.  Today, the former sites of the Fitch Institute and the Fitch Creche are a part of the parking lot associated with the Apartments at the Hub Property at 149 Swan Streeet.  

Back to Butler Place

Ok, so where were we….oh yes, Butler Place.  

Joseph Butler was born in 1865 in Erie, Pennsylvania, to John Butler and Margaret Collins.  Joseph Butler served as Alderman from 1894 to 1910, first for the Second and Third Wards.  Joseph Butler also operated a tavern with his brother Patrick at 204 Seneca Street, at the northeast corner of Seneca and Butler Place. The saloon was still in business in February 1931 when it was padlocked by an injunction order by the Assistant Federal Attorney.  The business was ordered to be padlocked for one year.  Overall, there was a campaign to close 250 saloons in Buffalo!  

Joseph Butler petitioned the city to get Fitch Alley to be renamed Butler Place, in honor of his father, John.  John Butler was a flagman with the New York Central Railroad.  John was well-known around town because he only had one arm.  Butler Place was officially named on September 23, 1891.  John Butler died in May 1896 of a heart attack.  Joseph Butler died in May 1945 at the age of 80.  Joseph is buried at Mount Olivet Cemetery in Kenmore.  I wasn’t able to determine exactly when their saloon at the corner of Seneca and Butler Place was demolished, but the property has been a parking lot for Seneca Plumbing at 192-196 Seneca Street (at the northwest corner of Seneca and Butler Place – now the Botanist and a law firm) since at least 1962.  

Next time you pass the corner of Michigan and Swan Streets, think of Buffalo’s early social workers, Mr. Fitch’s gift he gave to Buffalo, and the good work that happened at that corner between 1880 and 1933.  (And the next time you walk, bike, or drive down Lexington Avenue, ask yourself if you’re “toney” enough to be on the street, haha!)  

Want to learn about other streets? Check out the Street Index. Don’t forget to subscribe to the page to be notified when new posts are made. You can do so by entering your email address in the box on the upper right-hand side of the home page. You can also follow the blog on Facebook. If you enjoy the blog, please share it with your friends; It really does help!

Sources:

  • Sheehan Closure Plan, August 28, 2012.  NYS Department of Health.  http://www.health.ny.gov/events/public_hearing_reports/sheehan/docs/closure_plan.pdf
  • The History of Germans in Buffalo and Erie County.  Reinecke & Zesch. Buffalo NY, 1898.
  • “Motion, Resolution and Notices.”  Buffalo Express.  March 26, 1855, p3.
  • “What’s in a Name”.  Buffalo Sunday Truth.  March 18, 1888, p1.
  • “A Magnificent Charity:  Benjamin Fitch’s Gift to the Poor of Buffalo.” Buffalo Commercial.  April 13, 1881, p1.
  • “Benjamin Fitch’s Portrait.”  Buffalo Courier Express.  March 14, 1882, p4.
  • “Mr. Fitch Dead:  The Veteran Philanthropist Dies in New York at a Ripe Old Age.”  Buffalo Weekly Express.  November 8, 1883, p5.
  • “Maria M Love Fund Benefit Recalls Work of Founder.”  December 2, 1950, p13.
  • Stuart, Paul.  “Stephen Humphreys Gurteen”  Encylopedia of Social Work:  National Association of Social Workers Press.  June 11, 2013.
  • “Fitch Institute Laying the Corner Stone.”  Buffalo Courier Express, May 11, 1882, p3.
  • “Far-Sighted Liberality:  Darien’s Fitch Founded Nation’s First Veterans Home in 1864.”  Hartford Courant.  July 13, 2014, pB1.
  • “Benjamin Fitch’s Gift:  Buffalo’s Cooper Institute Nearly Completed”.  Buffalo Evening Telegraph.  April 9, 1883, p1.
  • “Formal Opening of the Institution Tomorrow Evening.”  Buffalo Commercial, Janaury 5, 1881.
  • “Fitch Institute’s Properties Sought for Business Use”.  Buffalo News.  June 9, 1953, p28.
  • “Tax Suit Recalls Fitch Gifts to Charity Here in 1870s”.  Buffalo News.  May 27, 1947, p11.
  • Child And Family Services, About Us.  http://www.cfsbny.org/about-us/
  • “Fifty Years of Family Social Work:  1877-1927”.  Charity Organization Society of Buffalo, October 1927.
  • “Mrs. Norman E Mack heads Charity Ball Committee.”  Buffalo News.  November 13, 1933, p10.
  • “Fitch Accident Hospital Abolished.”  Buffalo Times.  January 28, 1901, p1.
  • “Miss Mary Sheldon’s School for Young Ladies and Kindergarten”.  Buffalo Commercial.  August 17, 1867, p3. 
  • “Fitch Sites, in Tax Foreclosure, Bought by City for $41,927”.  Buffalo News.  March 26, 1948, p4.   
  • Brady, Karen.  “The Birth of Day Care”.  Buffalo News.  October 1, 1995, p126. 
  • Ernst, Dave.  “Fire-Ruined Fitch Building Had Been Sold, Should have been Demolished Months Ago.”  Buffalo News.  May 30, 1974, p21.  
  • “Fitch Institute Bldg, Only Shell of Past, Faces Provident Death.”  Dribble, Ralph.  Buffalo News.  April 10, 1973, p28.  
  • “How Buffalo Is Doing Good.”  Buffalo Courier.  Janaury 29, 1897, p2.  
  • Enrst, Dave.  “Investigators Claim Arsonist Started Fitch Blaze; The Question is Why”  Buffalo News.  May 15, 1974, p14.  
  • “Fitch Building is Found Unfit as Men’s Shelter.”  Buffalo News.  October 11, 1967, p77.
  • Anderson, Dale.  “Structure that Housed Nation’s First Day-Care Center for Working Women Razed.”  Buffalo News.  June 30, 1998, p11. 
  • “Joseph Butler, Alderman for 16 years, dies.”  Buffalo Courier Express.  May 21, 1945, p16.  
  • “Padlocks Placed on 6 Saloons Here.”  Buffalo News.  February 3, 1931, p3.  
  • Fitch, Roscoe Conkling.  History of the Fitch Family.  Privately Published by the Fitch Family.  1930. 
  • “Fresh Air Mission.”  Buffalo Commercial.  August 11, 1888, p3.   

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cary-streetCary Street is a two block street on the western side of Downtown Buffalo, running from Delaware Avenue to just past Elmwood Avenue.  The land upon which Cary Street sits was originally a wedding gift from Trumbull Cary to his son, Dr. Walter Cary.  The property included the Genesee Hotel (now the Hyatt), and the site of the Cary Home at 184 Delaware Avenue.  The Cary family played a role in Buffalo and Western New York’s development for generations.  Trumbull Cary established the first bank west of Albany, the Bank of Genesee, in Batavia in 1829.  His son, Dr. Walter Cary was a leader in Buffalo’s cultural and social life.  Three of Walter’s sons, Thomas, Charles and George made important contributions to Buffalo.

The first of the Cary family to arrive in the Americas was John Cary, who sailed arrived in Massachusetts from England in 1634.  When Joseph Ellicott came into the wilderness of Western New York during the early 1800s as the agent for the Holland Land Company, he brought with him as his right hand man, a surveyor named Ebeneezer Cary.  Ebeneezer Cary stayed in Batavia and in 1805, he hired his brother Trumbull, who had been living in Mansfield, Connecticut, to fill the position.

Trumbell Cary

Trumbell Cary

Trumbull Cary became postmaster, banker and a leading merchant in Batavia.  He founded the Bank of Genesee, served as adjutant in the War of 1812, and was elected to serve in both the State Assembly and Senate.  Trumbull Cary was married to Margaret Eleanor Brisbane.  Their large mansion, built in 1817, was a center of hospitality and culture in Batavia.  Trumbull Cary died in 1869.  The mansion was demolished in the 1960s.

Trumbull Cary and his family traveled often to New York, Philadelphia and Washington DC in days when stagecoach trips were tiring and often hazardous.  The Carys had one son, Walter.  Trumbull Cary died in 1869 and is buried in Batavia Cemetery.  The Bank of Genesee became the Genesee Trust Company and in 1956, the Genesee Trust Company merged with Manufacturers& Traders Trust Company to become the Batavia branch of M&T.

Dr. Walter Cary and Julia Love Cary

Dr. Walter Cary and Julia Love Cary

Walter Cary was born in Batavia in 1818.  He graduated from Union College in Schenectady in 1839, and then studied medicine at University of Pennsylvania.  He also studied at many leading European Universities and hospitals, at a time when the trip across the Atlantic meant six to seven weeks on a sailing ship.  Dr. Cary entered into the practice of Dr. Charles Winne in 1845.  Dr. Cary was well respected for the zeal and skill he executed during Buffalo’s second cholera epidemic.

Dr. Cary married Julia Love, daughter of Thomas Love, judge and congressman.  The Loves lived on the site of the YMCA prior to its construction (at Mohawk and Genesee Streets, now the Olympic Towers).   Judge Love named many of Buffalo’s streets – Edward for his friend Judge Edward Walden, Niagara for the River, Batavia Street (now Broadway) for the village, Genesee for Genesee County, North and South Division because they divided the business section of the city from the residential section, and Exchange Street, for the barter with the Indians conducted there.

Dr. Cary and his wife lived in the American Hotel, which was located where the Main Place Mall is currently located.  The apartment was considered one of the most beautiful apartments in town, modeled from the apartments Dr. Cary had visited in Paris.  Their first son was born there.  The apartment was  destroyed, along with much of the Carys belongings in the historic American Hotel fire.

Undated Photo of Cary House at 184 Delaware

Undated Photo of Cary House at 184 Delaware

After the fire, Dr. Cary built a home at Delaware Avenue and Huron Street.  A potato patch had been growing there, in honor of the potatoes, Mrs. Cary planted Japanese yam vines that grew over the house and bloomed with purple flowers each spring.  After ten years, Dr. Cary decided to stop practicing medicine to spend more time with his wife, daughter and six sons.  During the Franco-Prussian War, he took them all to Europe.  He had a coach built to order and they toured from Brussels to Naples.  The coach is in the collection of the Buffalo History Museum.  During President Grant’s presidency, Dr. Cary brought his family to Washington for the winter.  They were guests at many White House functions during this time.

Julia Cary’s sister, Maria Love, lived with the family and accompanied them on their trips.  Maria Love founded the Fitch Creche, Buffalo’s first day nursery.  She was the last member of the family to reside in the old Cary home, living there until her death in 1931.  The Maria Love Fund still exists today, continuing Ms. Love’s work in the community.

Walter and Julia had seven children – Trumbull – who followed in his namesake’s footsteps and became a bank president, Thomas – a lawyer, Charles- a physician, Walter – a journalist, Seward – a sculptor, George – an architect, and one daughter Jennie who became Mrs. Laurence Rumsey.  The Cary family were active polo players, the brothers began the first polo leagues in Buffalo, one of the first two leagues in the country.  Seward Cary is credited with bringing polo to Harvard during the 1880s.  A joke around town was that once when the boys were playing polo, one was injured and the game stopped.  When Mrs. Cary asked why the game had stopped, when she was told that her son was hurt, she replied they should just use one of the other sons to replace him.

Spirit of Niagara

Spirit of Niagara

The Cary family was also very involved in the Pan American Exposition.  The Cary family’s in-laws, the Rumseys, owned much of the land the Exposition was located on.  George Cary sat on the Board of the Exposition and designed the New York State Building for the Exposition (currently the Buffalo History Museum).   Charles Cary’s wife, Evelyn Rumsey Cary painted “the Spirit of Niagara” one of the popular paintings for the Pan American Exposition.

Thomas Cary was instrumental in founding the Charity Organization Society, one of the oldest organizations of its kind in the country.  Charles Cary, M.D., was Dean of the Medical School at University of Buffalo.

George Cary

George Cary

George Cary was a nationally renowned architect.  He apprenticed with McKim, Mead & White in New York City, and studied at Ecole des Beaux Arts in France.  Major buildings he designed included the medical school and dental college at UB, the Buffalo Historical Society, the Gratwick Laboratory (built for UB, part of the original Roswell Park Cancer Institute), the Pierce Arrow administration building, the first Buffalo General Hospital, Forest Lawn’s Delaware Avenue Gate and Administration Building, and many houses in the City of Buffalo.

Walter and Julia Grave

Walter and Julia Grave

The Cary siblings built the first crematory in Buffalo, the Buffalo Crematory, in memory of their father after his death in France in 1881.  The Cary family owned the house at 184 Delaware until the 1960s.  The house was used for a few years as a restaurant, which suffered a fire and the house was demolished in 1966 when the land was purchased by the federal government.  The Dulski Federal Building was built on the site, which was recently rehabbed into the Avant Building, at 200 Delaware Avenue.

184 Delaware in the 1960s

184 Delaware in the 1960s

 

Source:

  1. “Cary Street is Memorial to Leaders in Area Development”, Buffalo Courier-Express, May 13, 1940.
  2. “Obituary:  Death of HO. Trumbull Cary of Batavia”.  The New York Times, June 26, 1869.  
  3. “Cary House, 184 Delaware Avenue, Buffalo, Erie County, NY”.  Historic American Building Survey.  HABS NY, 15-BUF, 1-
  4. Editors.  Buffalo Medical and Surgical Journal.  Vol. XXI.  August 1881 to July 1882, Buffalo.
  5. “Last of the Cary Boys”.  Buffalo Courier Express.  Sept 9, 1948.

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This post is Part Two in a series of three posts about Buffalo’s Canal District.  Click here to read Part One, discussing the early days of the Erie Canal, when the area was part of the seedy underbelly of Buffalo.  Part Three will come out next week and will discuss the most recent years of Buffalo’s Canal District.  Today’s post discusses the Italian Quarter and Dante Place, the street that replaced Canal Street.

1925 Map of the Canal District

1925 Map of the Italian Quarter

Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church, built in 1906 on LeCouteulx Street

Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church, built in 1906 on LeCouteulx Street Source: America’s Crossroads by Michael Vogel

The Canal District slowly died as trade along the canal was replaced by railroads.  Industry and immigration began to change the landscape of the area.  The sailors and canal business moved out of the area and sought work elsewhere.  The vacant buildings were taken over by immigrants.  The Canal District made way to what was called the Italian Quarter, due to the influx of Italian immigrants.  Between 1900 and 1920, the Italian population of Buffalo increased from 6,000 to 16,000 (Buffalo’s total population in 1920 was 506,775).  The Italian community separated in Buffalo based on the territories and villages of their homeland – each settling into different parts of the City of Buffalo.  The Abbruzzese moved to the upper East Side; the Campobassini moved to the Lower East Side; the Calabrians moved to South Buffalo; and the companies moved to an area near Downtown Buffalo.  The Italians who settled in the Canal District were coming mainly from Sicily to escape a famine and high taxes.

The area was also known as “The Hooks” after the cargo hooks that the dockworkers and longshoremen used.  Near the entrance to the district was “the Coop”, an Italian fruit vendor stand.  The bath house posted instructions in both English and Italian.    The name of Canal Street was changed to Dante Place in 1909.  The impact of changing the name of the street had a large impact on the neighborhood. The rule limiting the women of Canal Street from venturing north into Buffalo proper was lifted.  After the women left, the saloons and concert halls began to close.  The once notorious dance hall saloon known as the Only Theater became a “normal” tavern and politicians meeting place.

Jacob Schoellkopf, a millionaire who made his money from tanning...owner of the Revere Block

Jacob Schoellkopf, a millionaire who made his money from tanningowner of the Revere Block.  Newspaper articles of the day criticized him for the poor conditions in his buildings.

Former brothels and hotels for canal workers and travelers became tenements.  These three and four story brick buildings housing multiple families in crowded conditions. The tenements were poorly-ventilated, small rooms with little heat, frozen pipes in winter and little sunlight. Cholera and pneumonia were common in the tenements.  Many of the immigrants lived in poverty. Rooms rented for $6/month (about $100-130 in current dollars).  In 1890, one old hotel called the Revere Block, originally designed to hold 100 guests, had 1,040 residents living in crammed conditions.  Reports in other buildings included 18 families crammed into four rooms; 56 people sharing eight bedrooms.  Conditions in many of these tenements were disgusting and unsanitary. Social work organizations began working to help deal with the conditions in the district.  Charity Organization Society and Miss Maria Love began to work with the churches around 1895, working to organize efforts against poverty throughout the City of Buffalo.   Seventy-six churches, of 12 denominations, pitched in to help around the city.  Each church was responsible for a district, working for the “moral elevation of the people, and for the relief of all the needy and neglected persons of whatever religious faith within the district”.  Instead of offering direct relief, many of these societies attempted to address the cycle of poverty.

Images from Welcome Hall, one of the settlement houses in Dante Place.   Click here to see in greater detail

Images from one of the settlement houses in Dante Place.
Click here to see in greater detail

Remington Hall was located at the corner of Erie Street and Canal Street (next to the Revere Block) and was one of the settlement houses located in the canal district.  Miss Mary Remington was the head of the settlement house, working with First Presbyterian Church to reform one of the “vilest tenements in Buffalo”.

Mary Remington was born in 1859 in Connecticut and began working to help others at a young age.  At the time, social service was in its infancy and community centers were not common.  In 1894, when Miss Remington came to Buffalo, she noticed that the churches were ignoring the Canal street district, but she saw that the need there was the greatest.  Many Buffalonians did not believe that she could make a difference in that neighborhood, but she was determined to try.

Mary Remington in 1933 Source:  Buffalo Courier Express

Mary Remington in 1933
Source: Buffalo Courier Express

Remington Hall included a kitchen, sewing classes, a Sunday School, mothers’ meetings, a nursery and kindergarten, vocational education, housekeeping and cleanliness classes and recreational programs.  Miss Remington served as landlord, cook, leader of religious services, pianist, teacher and friend to the needy regardless of their race, creed, age or reputation.  She was referred to as “mea madre” by many of the Italian immigrants.  She wrote letters for the men who could not write, she delivered soup and tea to sick women, bailed neighbors out of jail and helped out her neighborhood in any way she could as part of her daily routine.  During the Pan American Exposition in 1901, she took in extra borders and raised $1,000 to do repairs to her building and open a fresh air lodge at the old International Hotel in Fort Erie for poor residents to go to experience a summer change of scenery. She helped more than 100 women who had kept brothels by showing them a different, upstanding way of life.  She sustained the Remington Hall primarily by the rents she charged her tenants.  She was named among the “Woman’s Who’s Who of America” in 1914.  In 1933, Miss Remington said, “If I could live my life over, I would again spend it among the poor”.  During the depression, Miss Remington’s health declined and she was forced to move to the country.  She still continued to provide for the needy, knitting mittens and sending vegetables from her gardens in to the city.

The Settlement House Movement was strong in Buffalo and settlement houses existed across Buffalo.  Two of the oldest – Westminster Community House (1893) and Neighborhood House Association (1894) merged to form the Buffalo Federation of Neighborhood Centers (BFNC) in the 1980s and still provide services in the Fruit Belt Neighborhood.

While settlement workers tried hard to make conditions better for the residents in poverty stricken areas, many of the early social workers were viewed as outsiders.  They were thought to undermine old world culture rather than seeing its positive value.  In Dante Place, they misunderstood many of the Italian immigrants, and the Italians misunderstood them.  The American values of sobriety, thrift, sociability, industry, cleanliness, patriotism and “properness” were foreign to the southern Italians of the district.  Many of the Sicilian men resented the settlement’s intrusions into family life. The district was described as “looking more and more like Little Italy by day, and the old-time pit of vice and iniquity by night”.  There were reports of organized crime, but for this area, this was nothing new.

Il Corriere Italiano from the day President McKinley died in 1901

Il Corriere Italiano from the day President McKinley died in 1901

Many of the Italians formed their own fraternal organizations, professional societies and cultural clubs.  There were so many of these groups that a Federation of Italian-American Societies was established in 1906.  One of the important Italian newspapers in Buffalo was known as Il Corriere Italiano (the Italian Courier).  The paper was published from 1898 until the 1950s.   The editor of the paper also published a book in 1908 called La Citta di Buffalo, NY (the City of Buffalo, NY) which was written to bring potential immigrants from Italy.

Most of Buffalo’s Italians worked as laborers.  Many of the Italians worked on construction of the Pan-American Exposition in the northern part of the City of Buffalo in 1901.  During the Pan-American Exposition, the Italians were represented by the Venice in America attraction on the Midway of the Exposition.  The attraction included mandolin and guitarist players.

Here is a view of the area from 1921:

1921 View of the Area

1921 View of the Area

During the 1920s, New York State began to fill in the Erie Canal.  At the time, the abandoned canal waters stood stagnant and polluted.  By the 1930s, the area was considered one of Buffalo’s worst slums.  Citizens living in the “proper” part of Buffalo continued to cast their eyes down on the waterfront.   City Planners began a 40-year fight to change the area to create something new on the waterfront, to create something of which the whole city could be proud.

A typical tenement in Dante Place - 42 Fly Street

A typical tenement in Dante Place – 42 Fly Street

Little Italy lingered on for a little longer; however, the neighborhood began to look old and dilapidated.  Many of the Italians from Little Italy began to integrate into the rest of the city, as their families began to earn enough to move into houses on the Lower West Side.  The paved streets, concrete sidewalks and trees of the Lower West Side was seen as an improvement from the manure filled cobblestones and wooden sidewalks of the Canal District.  In 1949, Mount Carmel Church closed, and St. Anthony’s on Court Street replaced it as the main Italian church in Buffalo.  The Italians celebrated many of the feast days with parades and large religious festivities.  Among these was the Feast of St. Anthony, when people came together for a parade and festivities.  The St. Anthony’s Festival on Connecticut Street began in 1976 as a way to bring back the days of the old traditions.  The Connecticut Street festival was moved to Hertel Avenue in the 1980s and is the annual Italian Heritage Festival, held every summer and attracting an estimated 600,000 annually.

A 1947 painting titled Dante Place by Joseph Carvana

A 1947 painting titled Dante Place by Joseph Carvana

In 1936, one of the residents of a tenement in Dante Place lit a candle and went into the basement, causing a Natural Gas explosion that lifted the entire building off its foundations.  Five people died in the blast, bringing national attention to slum areas, which spurred new legislation.   Buffalo quickly moved to raze the substandard buildings in Dante Place, and by 1937, over 160 buildings had been demolished.  In 1948, only 90 families remained in the area.  The Buffalo Courier Express noted in October 1936 that this may have been the first slum clearance rehabilitation project in the United States.  In the 13 block area, there had once been 1500 residents and by 1936, there were only 124 remaining.

City officials used Works Progress Administration (WPA) funds to construct Memorial Auditorium on the northeastern portion of Little Italy.  The Aud replaced the Broadway Auditorium.   When construction began, the Buffalo News reported:

As if overnight, the Terrace once more is coming to life.  The massive new hall will be the mainstay, but city planners also want to improve the section with a boulevard in the old canal bed, waterfront parks and relocation, if not removal of the New York Central tracks.  Visible proof of these good intentions is construction of the new hall.

Postcard of Memorial Auditorium

Postcard of Memorial Auditorium

The Aud opened in October 1940.  The Aud was host to many events, including circuses, concerts, sports and political events.  Over the years, the Aud was home to the Buffalo Bisons of the AHL, the Buffalo Sabres of the NHL, the Buffalo Braves of the NBA, the Buffalo Stallions of the MSL, the Buffalo Bandits of the MILL, the Buffalo Blizzard of the NPSL, and the Buffalo Stampede of the RHI.  Additionally,  The last of the old saloons was the Peacock Grill, located at 136 Dante Place.  In 1950, Libby and Joe Guillo sold the rights to the Peacock Grill building and moved up to Main Street.  The era of the Canal District as Little Italy had ended.

Stay tuned for Part Three, which discusses the last 60 years of Buffalo’s Canal District.

Learn about other streets by checking out the Street Index.

Sources:

  1. Courier Express Dec 17, 1952 p 15
  2. Buffalo Evening News 4-15-1950 “Echoes of Revelry Have Faded out and Earth-Movers Clang Away.
  3. “Housing Project Rises where Canalers Roistered” Courier Express 10-29-1952
  4. “Lusty Canal St. Lived Hard and Fast in Heyday” Courier Express 10-26-1952
  5. “Dante Area Streets Get Single Name” Courier Express, November 11, 1960 Buffalo Streets Vol 1.
  6. America’s Crossroads:  Buffalo’s Canal Street/ Dante Place.  Buffalo NY Heritage Press, 1993.
  7. Dug’s Dive.   Buffalo Express Saturday Morning August 29,1874
  8. Hart, Mary Bronson.  Partitioning Poverty:  Zones of Influence in Social Work.  Boston Evening Transcript.  August 29, 1900.  http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2249&dat=19000829&id=z40-AAAAIBAJ&sjid=qFkMAAAAIBAJ&pg=6968,6102881
  9. Yans-McLaughlin, Virginia.  Family and Community:  Italian Immigrants in Buffalo, 1880-1930.
  10. Maggiotto, Anthony, Sr.  LaTerra Promessa:  The Promised Land:  200 Years of WNY Italian-American Experiences.  Federation of Italian-American Societies of Western New York,  2007.
  11. Mary E. Remington Founder of Dante Place Mission.  Buffalo Courier Express, August 27, 1933.  P 4.

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